Childhood narrative
...o get the most out of every wave. We kept up like this for months, going to the beach every time we had the chance. Then it was a normal Saturday, I remember in October, and I said to my father, “Let’s go to the beach.” And with enthusiasm he responded, “OK”. Then we headed to the beach, myself thinking about how to surf better, just dreaming about catching a wave and riding it until the end. We arrived to the beach at 8:30 am; I put my rash wear on, waxed my board and prepared myself psychologically to go surf. I directed myself to the breakers (Boulders where the waves break), without my dad’s permission, walked through the jagged edged rocks and stood on the lowest one just dying to jump into the water. I wanted to surf like a pro. Suddenly I saw a six feet wave, ten feet from me, coming towards me. I thought, “ I have to get to a higher rock.” But I had no time to climb the rocks; the wave broke too fast and knocked me down against the breakers. Under the water I couldn’t do anything, the power of the water is too strong, you are just impotent to it, you have no control and are terrified in a manner that is horrible. I didn’t feel much, but during the 3 seconds I was under I felt I hard stun against a breaker in ...